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We investigate the reflection and nonlinear interaction between the first and second harmonics of a two-dimensional Boussinesq wavetrain. Effects of topography are included, the depth departing from a...
A very short time-constant thermistor, mounted on a streamlined strut, was placed to alternately measure the water and air temperatures during the passage of wind-driven water waves in the laboratory....
Two forms of a tw0-dimensional streamfunction solution for symmetric periodic water waves on a fluid with a vertical distribution of vorticity are presented. The magnitude of the vorticity varies line...
The problem of mass transport induced by monochromatic waves in a viscous fluid of infinite depth and infinite lateral extent is examined. The fluid viscosity is assumed constant and the effects of Co...
In the continuous frequency spectrum of wind-generated water waves Fourier components have different origins. At a particular frequency, some will be harmonies resulting from the nonlinear profiles of...
The refraction of small shallow water waves by an idealized circular island is studied in this paper. The island's shoal is modeled by a quartic polynomial in the radial variable. This particular mode...
The structure of the velocity field over a propagating wave of fixed frequency is examined. The vertical and horizontal velocities were measured in a transformed Eulerian wave-following frame of refer...
A theory for determining the dynamic effect of intense rain on water waves is established, based on momentum exchange. The theory takes into account the rain intensity, angle of incidence and fall vel...
With the help of fractal geometry used to model the intermittency of energy input from wind to wave components, the theoretical spectra of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves propose...
Spatial measurements of capillary-gravity waves in the ocean were obtained using a scanning slope sensor mounted on a free-drifting buoy intended to minimize the flow disturbance. The data provide dir...
A new statistical distribution for the surface elevation of weakly nonlinear water waves is derived using the Pearson System of distributions. The new distribution avoids some problems associated with...
Stability regimes of three-dimensional surface gravity waves are provided in this study. The stability regimes for waves in water of finite depth differ significantly from those for waves in deep wate...
Finding a robust threshold variable that determines the onset of breaking for deep water waves has been an elusive problem for many decades. Recent numerical studies of the unforced evolution of two-d...
Finding a robust threshold variable that determines the onset of breaking for deep water waves has been an elusive problem for many decades. Recent numerical studies of the unforced evolution of two-d...
Part I of this study describes the authors' findings on a robust threshold variable that determines the onset of breaking for unforced, irrotational deep water waves and proposes a means of predicting...

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