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Water motion in the barotropic mode, directly forced by suddenly imposed wind stress, is investigated in basins with arbitrary topography, but paying special attention to long basins, in which the dep...
In a two-layer model of stratified fluid flow, motions in the internal mode are governed by the distribution of an equivalent depth he. For a typical continental shelf, the distribution of he with dis...
A physically realistic and general model for the vertical eddy viscosity in a homogeneous fluid is proposed. For an infinitely deep ocean the vertical eddy viscosity increases linearly with depth from...
Large-amplitude gravity-inertial waves have been observed in stratified seas. These waves, of a shorter period than the Coriolis period, are linked to a gust of wind. Numerous theories have been propo...
Tidal and meteorological records at stations in the eastern Gulf of Mexico have been studied. The sea-level response is a maximum for winds along the coast and varies symmetrically with angle. The coh...
We analyze in detail the budget of total and fluctuating energy in the surface layer of the ocean. We suggest a rational scheme for separating the budget of turbulence from that of random wind-generat...
An attempt is made to explain the fixed locations of coastal upwelling centers in the Gulf of Lions as a function of the coastline geometry alone. The semi-implicit numerical model, based on two-layer...
Wind, currents, and surface waves have been measured in a circulating wind-wave tank. Conditions corresponding to both coast and ocean, with and without bottom return flows respectively, have been sim...
Multiyear continuous observations of velocity and salinity in the Chesapeake Bay indicate that wind-induced destratification occurs frequently from early fall through midspring over large areas of the...
This paper aims to find a fast and efficient way to predict the wind-induced components of surface currents in a nearshore coastal area of several hundred square kilometers from wind velocities measur...
A kinematic wave breaking criterion is applied in the calculation of the short-wave dissipation. It is found that this short-wave dissipation, due to wave-drift interactions, has the effect of suppres...
The Santa Barbara Channel (SBC) is a coastal basin about 100 km long bounded by the Southern California mainland on the north and by a chain of islands on the south. The SBC is at most 50 km wide and ...
We examined the interannual variability in the timing and magnitude of seasonal phytoplankton blooms in the North Atlantic (708N–108N, 908W–108E) in relation to variability in wind forcing during the...
The physical oceanography and chlorophyll distribution in Willapa Bay and the adjacent coastal ocean were measured during an upwelling-downwelling wind cycle in late May 1999. Coastal conditions were ...

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